What to Do When Your Appliance Shows an Error Code — First Steps
Step 1 — Don't touch anything yet. Note the exact code.
Write down the exact error code before doing anything else. Be precise — F3 and F30 are different codes. E2 on a Samsung washer and E2 on a Bosch oven mean completely different things.
Also note:
- The brand and model number (on the door edge, back, or bottom panel)
- What the appliance was doing when the code appeared (mid-cycle? on startup? random?)
- Any unusual sounds, smells, or visual signs (water on the floor, burnt smell, smoke)
If you see smoke, smell burning, or see water actively leaking — turn the appliance off immediately and address the safety issue before investigating the code.
Step 2 — Look up your specific code
Search by brand + appliance + code. Use this site to find your exact code page — each one covers the most likely causes and step-by-step fixes specific to that brand and appliance type.
Quick navigation:
- Washer error codes
- Dryer error codes
- Dishwasher error codes
- Refrigerator error codes
- Oven error codes
- AC error codes
Or search by brand and code on the homepage.
The code will tell you the severity level: low (informational), medium (investigate soon), or high (stop and act).
Step 3 — Power cycle the appliance
A significant percentage of error codes are transient — caused by a momentary sensor glitch, a power fluctuation, or a cycle interruption. A proper power cycle clears the control board's state and often resolves the issue.
How to do it properly:
- Turn the appliance off using its own controls.
- Turn off the circuit breaker (or unplug from the wall).
- Wait 5 full minutes — this is longer than most people wait, but necessary for capacitors to discharge.
- Restore power and run a short test cycle.
If the code does not reappear, monitor the appliance over the next few cycles. If it stays clear, you're likely good.
Step 4 — Check the obvious physical causes
Before assuming an electronic or mechanical failure, verify the basics:
- Door / lid properly closed? A door that's slightly ajar will trigger DE or door-related fault codes on most appliances.
- Water supply valve open? Washers and dishwashers need full supply pressure. A partially closed valve causes fill errors.
- Filter clean? Dishwashers and washing machines both have user-accessible filters that cause errors when clogged.
- Drain hose kinked? A hose pinched behind the machine stops water from leaving.
- Load balanced? A heavy blanket bunched to one side will trigger balance errors on every spin attempt.
- Lint trap full? Dryers with restricted airflow surface D80/D90 or heating codes well before an actual component fails.
Step 5 — Decide: DIY or technician?
Use the error code you looked up to frame this decision:
- DIY-appropriate: filter cleans, hose checks, load redistribution, door latch inspection, basic resets, accessible part replacements (drain pump, door gasket, thermistor)
- Technician required: sealed refrigerant system issues, gas appliance faults, electrical burning smell, repeated high-severity codes, control board replacement, warranty-covered repairs
A useful rule: if the fix requires you to interact with gas, refrigerant, mains voltage, or any component you can't safely access without disassembling major structural parts — call a professional.
See our error code cheat sheet for a quick reference of common codes and their typical severity.
Step 6 — Document and monitor
If the code cleared after a reset, don't just move on and forget it. Log the date and code somewhere. A code that appears once might be a fluke; the same code appearing twice in a month is a developing fault. Having a record helps any technician you eventually call diagnose faster — and it builds a maintenance history if you sell the appliance.
Frequently asked questions
Should I be worried when my appliance shows an error code?
Not necessarily. Many codes are triggered by minor conditions (unbalanced load, door not fully closed, brief power fluctuation) and clear within minutes. Follow the steps above and the code page for your specific model to assess severity.
Is it safe to keep using an appliance with an active error code?
It depends on the code. Low severity codes may allow continued use. High severity codes — especially those indicating water leaks, electrical faults, gas issues, or compressor protection — mean stop immediately.
The same code keeps coming back after I reset it — what should I do?
A recurring code means the underlying physical fault was not resolved. The reset only clears the log — it doesn't fix the cause. Look up the specific code on this site and work through the listed causes systematically, or call a technician.
My appliance shows a code I can't find anywhere — what does that mean?
Some codes are model-specific diagnostic codes that only appear in service/diagnostic mode, not during normal use. Others are genuine brand-specific codes not covered in mainstream documentation. Check your model's tech data sheet (often stored inside the machine, e.g., inside a dryer door, behind a drawer) or contact the brand's support line.